Santorini: Irresistible year-round Over 100 tourism businesses remain open on Santorini during the winter months, offering visitors an opportunity to discover another, captivating side of the wonderful Cycladic island.
Beyond the Caldera
Beginning our tour from the southwestern side of the island, Akrotiri, located very close to the archaeological site of the same name and offering an amazing view of the volcano, is a lovely village possessing an authentic island atmosphere. The spot also features an impressive small castle, or “kasteli,” one of five built on Santorini by the Venetians in the 15th century. The lighthouse, constructed in 1892, is located at a short distance. On the way there, look out for Black Rock Studios (tel. 22860-82.290), one of the world’s leading recording studios. World-famous acts, such as Joe Bonamassa, Justin Bieber and OneRepublic, have recorded here. The next stop along the way, Emporio, the island’s most densely populated village, features a wondrous little castle with labyrinthine alleyways, arches, domes and enchanting old buildings. Just recently, Giota Zaggle opened a tiny workshop named Tou Heriou Kamomata, (Antics of Handbags) at the castle’s secondary entrance, where she makes handcrafted leather creations. Carry on for Megalochori, a place that has man aged to preserve its traditional character through numerous historic mansions, old houses, cave-like wineries built into the rock and renowned potteries. Three kilometres further on, Pyrgos, also featuring a labyrinthine, small castle complex, is ideal for walks and exploring. The sunset view is fabulous from its top. A small museum here,hosting a collection of icons and religious heirlooms, is interesting. The overall setting during the Epitaph procession, a Greek Orthodox tradition on Good Friday, scheduled for April 14 this coming Easter, is impressive. Numerous little lanterns are placed along alleys and in house yards. Exceptional traditional bread (“horiatiko”) made with sourdough, as well as rusks with saffron grown in the Akrotiri area,may be found at Fousteris bakery. Exo Gonia, a small village, boasts well-kept old houses. To the north, Vothonas, a farming area, spreads over the two sides of a gorge, where houses and Panagia Sergena church, all carved into the volcanic rock, may be seen. The church hosts a major religious feast every February 2. Finally, in the island’s northern part, Finikia is another agricultural area with very few residents.In the past, many farmers and winemakers were active here and many of their threshing floors and wineries have survived to this very day. Agia Matrona church, with its signature palm tree in the forecourt, is the settlement’s trademark.
Talented artists
The island’s artists never get any time off. In the summer, they open up workshops and stores for the thousands of visitors who flock to the island, while in the winter, they enjoy the island’s tranquillity and focus on creating. Andreas Makaris, regarded as one of Greece’s finest ceramicists, runs a workshop named Earth and Water (tel. 22860- 82.625) in Megalochori with his wife, Kristi Kapetanaki, and their son, Orfeas. Their work is based on local ancient pottery methods. Also located at this village, Marina Taliadourou and Giannis Vladonopoulos’ workshop 1260C (tel. 22860-82.423) offers creations that have been influenced by Santorini’s natural environment. They include high-temperature, single-fired ceramic pieces – this technique improves the quality – decorated by porcelain and olive ash glazes.The pierced ceramic lamps created by Egli Symeonidi at Egli’s Pottery Studio (tel. 22860-83.085) in Megalochori are truly distinct. On Oia’s main pedestrian street, icon painter Dimitris Kolioussis (tel.22860-71.829), his wife, Alithini, and son, Apollonas, maintain a highly atmospheric workshop built into a rock, where they create icons and other marvellous paintings. The icons painted by Kolioussis on old window shutters and doors are particularly interesting. Grigoris Kouskouris, a pioneering marble sculptor, endows his works of art with a minimalist form, emphasising the material’s natural beauty. His own Spira Marble Art Gallery (tel. 22860-33.269), located in Messaria, plans to offer daily marble sculpture lessons as of next summer. Fully absorbed by the geometry and light of Santorini, AK Art Foundation (tel. 22860-21.506), located a kilometre from Fira on the Pyrgos road, hosts works by a husband, wife and son team, comprising painter Christoforos Asimis, sculptor Eleni Kolaitou and painter Katonas Asimis. Finally, Yannis Pantazis, a musician and musical instrument maker, and Argy Kakissis, his wife, run a cultural complex, La Ponta (tel. 22860-85374), in a masterfully restored 13th-century tower atop Akrotiri castle. The workshop produces the tsabouna (bagpipe) as well as other traditional Greek percussion and wind instruments. It also hosts an exhibition of tsabouna from around the Greek islands.
Significant museums
The two main museums in Fira – the Prehistoric Thera Museum (tel.22860-23.217), which presents the most significant murals found at the prehistoric settlement of Akrotiri, and the Archaeological Museum of Thera (tel. 22860-22.217), which hosts statues and discoveries from the Geometric, Archaic, Hellenistic, Roman periods – are both open throughout the year. The significant archaeological site at Akrotiri (tel. 22860-81.939) also remains open all year round. A bioclimatic shelter has been installed to cover the excavation, making visits possible during all weather conditions. (For further information on all the museums, see www.santorini.gr.)
Cultural initiatives
The Santorini Arts Factory (SAF) (www.santoriniartsfactory.gr) offers guided tours of the Tomato Industrial Museum, an old processing facility, and organises educational workshops for adults, covering polyphonic singing, ancient Greek pottery lessons and dance, as well as for children, including visual art and music. The active Santorini Film Club (www.kileth.gr) organises a film screening every Saturday at the Boutari Winery in Megalochori, where a wine bar also operates. Atlantis, a unique bookstore in Oia (www.atlantisbooks.org), is listed as one of the world’s most impressive book stores by Destinations of a Lifetime, a National Geographic publication.
Trekking and horse riding
The island’s fine winter weather – rainfall is rare on Santorini – makes for ideal walking conditions and getting acquainted with the island’s stunning landscape and architecture. The trail between Fira and Oia offers a spectacular walk along the edge of the caldera. Of medium difficulty, it takes about four hours to cover, stops included. The route running from Kamari to Perissa passes Zoodochou Pigis chapel, Ancient Thera archaeological site and the southern side of Mesa Vouno, a 366-meter mountain. Also of medium difficulty, the route requires four hours, including a stop at the archaeological site. From Mesa Gonia, the trail passes Pyrgos and reaches Profitis Ilias monastery,offering a unique view of the entire island. The route is of medium difficulty and takes 3½ hours. The route connecting Exo Gonia, Pyrgos and Emporio, which cuts through the Katsinaros gorge and winds up at Emporio castle, is also of medium difficulty and requires three hours. The horse riding adventures organised by the Santo Horse Riding school (tel. 6975-541.447, www.santorinihorseriding.gr) in Akrotiri also take in fascinating routes. Winter gastronomy Aroma Avlis (Exo Gonia, tel. 22860-33.395), a restaurant run by Artemis Karamolegos, includes a modern winery as part of the package it offers to guests. The rooster in red sauce and homemade pasta, as well as the roasted dried figs, sprinkled with coarse sea salt and fresh oregano. are stand-out items on the menu. The culinary standards are very high at Forty One (Perivolos, tel. 2286-082.710), which is housed in a former tomato processing facility. Its experienced chef, Vasilis Zacharakis, prepares superb dishes such as fava beans with egg, prosciutto with truffle oil, as well as meat balls with conchiglioni pasta. The meze (assorted small dishes) next door at Afros (Perivolos,tel. 2286-085.223) is primarily seafood-based. It is worth trying the wild cardamom, which grows close to the sea, for its unique, bitter taste. Live rebetika is performed here at lunchtime on Sundays, creating a cosy family atmosphere. Metaxy Mas (Exo Gonia, tel.22860-31.323), which is scheduled to reopen on February 14, is a Santorini fixture that offers perfectly cooked dishes such as baked lamb shanks and revythada, a creamy chickpea soup with lime, dill and smoked trout. Kritikos (Messaria, tel. 22860-32.300), a meat-lovers’paradise, serves juicy pork and beef steaks. A bygone atmosphere prevails at the small cafι To Steki tou Psara (tel. 22860-82.774), located at Vlychada marina. Its proprietor, Mrs Roula, fries and grills fresh fish from the daily catch from local fishermen.
Wineries and wine tasting
Though winter is a dead period in the winemaking process, many wineries will remain open this season, but some visits may need to be prearranged. The impressive Venetsanos Winery (tel. 22860-21.100) in Megalochori; the pioneering Domaine Sigalas (tel. 22860-71.644) in Baxes; the newcomer Vassaltis Winery (tel. 22860-22.211) in Vourvoulos; the Boutari (tel. 22860-81.011) and Gavalas wineries (tel. 22860-82.552), both located in Megalochori; Estate Argyros (tel. 22860-31.489) and Canava Roussos (tel. 22860-31.349), both in Episkopi Gonias; the Koutsoyannopoulos Winery (tel. 22860-31.322) in Vothonas, which also maintains a worthwhile wine museum; as well as the SantoWines complex (tel. 22860-28.058) in Pyrgos, may all be visited, but call first to be sure. Pelican Kipos (Fira, tel. 22860-23.433) offers wine tastings of the local labels as well as of select Greek and international wines in its cellar, housed in a 400-year-old vaulted cave. In Imerovigli, Heliotopos wine bar (tel. 22860-23.670), which also operates in a cave, offers a wide range of local labels and champagne, all accompanied by cheese and cold-cuts.